Breed Type
The Chion is a mixed breed. A cross between the Chihuahua and the Papillon, this is a lively and loveable hybrid.

Background
The Chion is a somewhat rare hybrid, and there is little reliable information about its origins. Most Chions are the result of first generation crossbreeding.

Description
Chions are small dogs, usually with long or medium length coats. They come in a variety of colors and have large, erect ears. Height and weight vary, but are less than 11 inches and 10 pound, respectively.

Care and Feeding
Both Chihuahuas and Papillons thrive on a diet that includes poultry, so it’s safe to assume that Chions will do well on such a diet as well. Gentle brushing is the most important step in maintaining a Chion’s coat. Nails should be trimmed regularly, and baths given as needed.
Chions need regular checkups to stay healthy. Vaccinations are due as follows:

•6-8 weeks: Distemper, Leptospirosis, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, Parvo, and Corona virus (DHLPPC)
•10-12 weeks: Second DHLPPC
•14-16 weeks: Third DHLPPC and rabies
•Annually: DHLPPC and rabies booster

Chions are average shedders. Regular vacuuming of the carpet and furniture is essential.

Housing Your Dog
Chions are indoor dogs. Some bark excessively, so they may not be the best choice if you live in an apartment.

Related Video:

Social Behaviors
Chions are too small and delicate to be handled by young or rambunctious children. They may not like strangers, and they tend to be aggressive toward other dogs. But with proper socialization, they may get along with other pets.

Handling and Training
Chions may be easy to train, or they may be rather headstrong. They are usually very smart, though, and can learn lots of things from a firm and patient trainer.

Activities
Chions are active, and they need daily walks and play sessions to stay healthy. They enjoy playing off-leash outdoors when weather permits.

Breeding/Reproduction
Chions are often bred back to Chihuahuas or Papillons. When selecting a mate for your Chion, check for gum and joint problems.

Common Health Problems
Chions may have a fontanel, or soft spot in the skull. Care must be taken to protect this sensitive area from injury. This breed may also be prone to colds.

Availability
Chions can be difficult to find in many areas. Prices vary.

The best natural grooming aid for pets is a hairbrush. A daily brushing that removes hairy tangles and much of the dirty accumulations that come from living naturally can also activate the healthy and healing functions of the skin cells and oil-producing glands of the skin. It can also enhance an animal’s important inner and skin-based immune systems. Finally, brushing helps to promote the vital functions of the human-animal bond. That makes a simple daily brushing the most natural, the easiest, and the very best grooming aid for the health of your pet, not to mention it being the cheapest.

Now, let’s move on to another popular grooming activity — shampooing. When it comes to shampooing, sometimes too much of a good thing isn’t always healthy. In fact, it can even be harmful. Shampoos dry the skin, and the harsher the shampoo, the more drying effect it will have.

Healthy skin is well oiled by the natural secretions of the skin glands. This oil-based coating is protective and it provides a healthy environment where beneficial bacteria are able to thrive and prevent the growth of disease-causing bacteria. In addition, skin oils react with vitamin D from the sun, which helps with calcium metabolism needed to make strong bones.

While it’s true that some pet shampoos contain moisturizers to give the hair coat an oily sheen, I am personally not convinced that artificial moisturizers are actually beneficial for the long-term health of the skin. Also, some shampoos contain antibiotics. When the antibiotic-laden shampoos are used, they not only attack the potential pathogenic, or bad, bacteria, they also eliminate all the good bacteria, too.

While the drying and the bacteria-killing effects of shampoos are of concern, perhaps of even greater concern is the long-term harmful potential of some of the chemicals found in many of our pet shampoos.

Healthy skin cells, or keratinocytes, have the capability of “uploading” whenever they need to do so. A prime example of healthy uploading is when the skin cells respond to a laceration by increasing their production, so the wound can close over and heal more quickly.

The opposite of skin “uploading” is skin “downloading”. When skin cells “download”, they move into an abnormal growth phase producing cells that age faster and that are more susceptible to skin disease and tumors. “Downloading” can be caused by a variety of things, including excessive sun tanning (in humans), oxidizing agents (such as those contained in many anti flea and tick shampoos), persistently dry skin, and the presence of certain microorganisms.

Now that I’ve described the negative effects of shampooing, I hope you can see that the pet primped up with a fresh coiffure every week and smelling like a perfume factory, while outwardly attractive, may not have the healthiest skin.

Tips on healthy shampooing:

1.Make shampooing a rare event. Most animals keep themselves clean, most of the time. Depending on your dog’s daily activities and his skin and hair coat’s natural texture, you may only need to shampoo once a month or even less often. Cats take care of their own cleanliness, naturally, and some of them can go a lifetime without a shampoo.
2.Use the mildest shampoo that will get the job done for your pet. I personally like oatmeal-based shampoos, perhaps with some skin-enhancing herbals added, and there are dozens of these on the market. (I’ll talk more about herbs for skin in Grooming Tips Part III.) Oatmeal is easy on the skin, it soothes inflammation, and it helps calm a pet’s mental state.
3.Avoid harsh shampoos and those that contain antibiotics and/or anti-parasite medicines.
4.If your pet has infected or irritated skin, or if parasites are present, check with your holistic vet for more natural cures.
5.Appreciate the fact that dogs smell like dogs and cats smell like cats-at least they should. If you feel you must do something about doggie or kitty odor, before you resort to another shampooing, try a spritz with an aromatic herbal such as lavender, chamomile, mint, or citrus.
While shampooing may seem like the best way to keep your pet clean, shampooing too often or with the wrong shampoos can damage healthy skin. Be kind to your pet’s skin and shampoo only when you feel it’s absolutely necessary. Remember, when it comes to shampooing, sometimes too much of a good thing isn’t always healthy, and it can even be harmful.

From the perspective of a holistic vet, when it comes to grooming, the closer we can come to an animal’s natural ways, the healthier it will be for them. So the first grooming practice I’ll discuss—and one I believe is the best—is a good, whole-body brushing.

Brushing mimics the naturally cleansing action of an animal’s tongue and paws as they lick and scratch away the day’s accumulation of hairy tangles and knots. A good daily brushing also gets us “hands-on” with the healthy aspects of the skin, letting us get an early-on feel for any disease process that may be beginning and helping us to enhance our pet’s innate immune systems and healing processes. In addition, hands-on activities such as brushing are the perfect way for us to trigger and reinforce all the healthy aspects of the human-animal bond.

How important is care of your pet’s skin? An animal’s skin is its largest organ, and much more than a simple protective layer that keeps the inside in and the outside out. Healthy skin produces: cells that create a flexible layer of protection; an environment that fosters the growth of beneficial bacteria; and, when needed, a rapid growth of cells that heals skin lesions (sometimes referred to as “uploading” of the skin cells).

The skin’s glands produce an oily substance that, in addition to adding sheen to the hair coat, helps to keep unhealthy or pathogenic bacteria at bay, while enhancing the skin’s naturally beneficial bacteria. It also works to activate vitamin D from the sun, which in turn helps with calcium metabolism.

An animal’s skin plays an active role in immunity, as well. Specialized skin cells (dendrites) are actually modified nerve cells that have the capability of interacting with whatever external stimuli the animal receives and take this received information directly into the lymphocytes, the animal’s inner core of immune function.

Finally, healthy skin literally teems with beneficial bacteria, which help to maintain the animal’s whole-body health by keeping any potential disease-causing bacteria at bay.

As a regular grooming activity, brushing does the most to promote healthy skin, but there’s no big secret to how to brush. You simply brush with the lay of the hair, and use whatever type of brush your pet seems to enjoy the most. Some critters like the wire brushes best and others prefer a softer bristle, but either will be effective, so long as they are used frequently. Puppies and kittens quickly learn the pleasures of a good grooming. Some pets may need a little time to get used to the daily grooming routine, so for them, take it slow at first and make grooming a fun time, coupled with rewards.

The simple act of brushing our pet’s hair enhances all the healthy functions of their skin: promoting the uploading function of skin cells, activating skin glands, and enhancing immune function. There are benefits for us, too. As we brush and rub our pets with our hands, we receive the advantage of an enhanced immune function as well, not to mention mental relaxation.

‘Tis the season for holiday joy and festivities, and for putting out all sorts of decorations to enhance the spirit of the occasion. The problem is, some of these ornamental additions may be harmful to pets, so we should be a mite cautious with the ornaments we select and where we put them.

Breakable hanging bulbs, for example, are just too tempting for the passing cat, and some of them don’t take much of a swat to break. The round ornaments also make for exciting toys for both dogs and cats to chase. Broken glass can be hazardous for all creatures, and some of the ornaments can be tempting enough to eat, or at least munch on. Try to keep the breakable ornaments out of reach of all pets.

There are some candied ornaments, especially those made of chocolate, that are not safe for dogs or cats. Again, they should be kept out of reach of all pets.

And while we’re on the subject of ornaments and hanging candies, it’s prudent to recognize that cats view the Christmas tree as the perfect place to hone their climbing skills – often with disastrous results. That is, if you consider a toppled tree with a wrecked pile of ornaments as a disaster. I’m not sure I have a good answer for the climbing cat, except to try to train it out of the tree and to provide plenty of other attractive places to climb. Perhaps a liberal spraying of one of the “cat-away” products around the base of the tree will work for you.

New electrical cords (used for lighted ornaments, for example) are also a curiosity too good to resist for many pets, and chewing on these can lead to lethal results. Spraying the cords with a tea made from lemon peels or a dose of bitter orange may keep the pets from them.

Finally, realize that there will be extra excitement in the air, and that excitement will be almost too much for puppies and kittens to endure. Provide them with plenty of activities to keep them busy while also giving them plenty of time for R and R.

As we all know, cats are very clean animals. So clean that they lick their fur and bodies to rid themselves of dirt and loose hair. When a cat grooms hair passes through the gastrointestinal tract and exits in the cat’s feces. However, this hair can get lodged in the stomach or intestine where larger clumps of hair can build up. Generally this does not cause a problem and the cat will pass the hairball in its stool or vomit. If the hairball is not passed normally the hairball can actually create a blockage and cause a variety of problems including blockage of the esophagus, stomach, small intestine or colon. If not treated these problems can become serious. In severe cases surgery may be necessitated to remove the blockage. If you suspect your cat is having trouble passing a hairball consult your vet.

Symptoms to look for:
· Coughing
· Vomiting
· Weight loss or decreased appetite (if the hairball isn’t passed)

Treatment:
Most hairballs pass normally. If your cat is having trouble with a hairball consult your vet. Generally feeding your cat a bit of catnip, a bit of cat grass, fiber or a vet-approved laxative (usually petroleum based) will be enough to help your cat remove a hairball. However in more extreme cases surgery may be needed to remove the hairball. Also note that other illnesses which cause vomiting are often mistaken for a hairball problem. When a cat vomits, any hair which is already in the stomach will be expunged. This sometimes leads owners to think the vomiting is *just* from a hairball. If your cat has persistent vomiting or vomits often consult your vet, there may be another cause.

Precautionary measures:
Brush and groom your cat regularly. The more hair you brush off your cat, the less he/she will swallow. You can also feed your cat catnip, cat grass (sold a pet stores), or a high-fiber diet (dry cat foods are usually a good source of fiber as compared to wet foods) on a regular basis to keep your cat’s digestive system in check and healthy. Always consult your vet before giving your cat any home-based medication or over-the-counter medication. And never give your cat any made-for-human medications without the expressed authorization of your veterinarian.

***Medical and care advice in this article is for your knowledge and information only. It is not a substitute for a veterinary appointment or an actual diagnosis for your pet. If you feel your pet has a health or behavior problem please consult your veterinarian immediately for specific advice tailored to your individual pet.

Ready to get your cat spayed or neutered? Check out these facts on these common procedures:

Recommended Age for Surgery
The normal range is six to nine months of age – surgery can be done earlier and of course later although with later surgeries you run the risk of an unexpected pregnancy.
Pre-Surgery
Your pet should be in good health prior to surgery – if not the veterinarian may re-schedule the surgery to avoid risk of complications.
Withhold food from your pet the evening before and the day of surgery. Water should be withheld before surgery – suggested length of time can vary so do check with your veterinarian when you make the surgery appointment. Follow your veterinarian’s instructions – it is very important to your pet’s health. A full stomach can result in vomiting and aspiration while under anaesthetic.Surgery
Performed under general anaesthetic.
In females the uterus, tubes and ovaries are removed.
In males the testicles are removed.
Post-Surgery
Males usually can go home the day of surgery.
Females can sometimes go home the day of surgery or usually the following day.
For more difficult surgeries or if there are complications your pet may require a few days hospital stay.
When your pet comes home – feed it small amounts of food and water that day and the following day.
Keep your pet quiet for a few days after surgery to prevent tearing of sutures.
Do not let your pet lick or chew at sutures. Check the sutures twice a day and if there appears to be any abnormalities, check with your veterinarian.
A re-check of your pet in about ten days may be recommended by your veterinarian.
Health/Behavioral Advantages – Spaying
Reduces risk of mammary cancer.
Eliminates risk of uterine cancer.
Eliminates the risk of pyometra – a serious disease involving production of pus in the uterus.
Eliminates annoying behaviors associated with going into ‘heat’.
Health/Behavioral Advantages – Neutering
Reduces risk of prostate cancer.
Eliminates risk of testicular cancer.
Less likely to spray in house and urine odor greatly reduced.
Often causes pets to be less aggressive.
Spayed/Neutered Pets Less Likely to Wander Reducing Risks of:

Fighting and being exposed to infectious diseases.
Being hit by a vehicle.
Getting lost.
Myths about Spaying and Neutering
There is absolutely no benefit to pets physically or emotionally in having one litter prior to surgery.
Neutering or spaying will not make pets fat and lazy – this is caused by overfeeding and lack of exercise.
Cost of Surgery
Costs vary at different clinics – if cost is a concern check for clinics that do low cost spays/neuters.
Many animal welfare societies will help with the cost of spays/neuters for low income pet owners

The Afghan Hounds are loyal and sensitive, with a tendency to be extremely independent. This breed is courageous and noble, and is suspicious but not aggressive toward strangers. It can be trained to be a good watchdog, and it’s a good dog for racing.

The Afghan is a sighthound breed. Sighthounds are known for their speed and keen eyes. Once used to hunt hares, deer, goats, wolves and gazelles, the Afghan is now a favorite breed for lure coursing. This breed is adaptable to a variety of climates. When choosing an Afghan Hound, look for signs of allergies, as well as heart disease, cancer, and chylothorax in the dog’s bloodlines.

Common Name(s)
Afghan Hound, Balkh Hound, Sage Baluchi, Tazi, Afghanischer Windhund, and Levrier Afghan

Breed Type
The Afghan Hound is a sighthound breed. Sighthounds are known for their speed and keen eyes.

Background
The Afghan Hound is one of the most ancient dog breeds in existence. Its origins are believed to go back several thousand years. It is depicted in cave drawings in northern Afghanistan and mentioned in Egyptian papyruses. It may be closely related to the Russian Tasy breed. In addition to hunting, the Afghan was also once used as a herder and watchdog.
The Afghan was prized in Afghanistan, and was rarely found outside the country until the twentieth century due to export restrictions. It became recognized by the AKC and CKC in the 1930s. In 2005, and Afghan puppy became the first successfully cloned dog.

Description
Afghan hounds are tall and slender with elongated, narrow heads. Their eyes are dark and almond shaped, and their ears flat on the head. The underside is concave, and the hips prominent. The tail is curled but does not go over the back. The Afghan’s coat is long and silky, and comes in a variety of colors. The most common markings consist of a sandy color with a darker face and ear fringe, and white markings are considered unfavorable.
Afghans are large dogs. Males are 27 to 29 inches tall and weigh 58 to 64 pounds. Females are slightly smaller.

Care and Feeding
This breed needs a diet high in fiber and carbohydrates. Good food choices include poultry, lamb, brown rice and wheat. The Afghan’s gorgeous coat is very labor intensive. Weekly bathing is crucial if the dog is to be shown, and advisable if kept as a pet. This is because brushing the coat when it is dry will damage it, causing it to mat more easily. If you do not have the time to commit to frequent bathing and brushing, you’ll need to keep the dog’s coat trimmed short. A snood can protect your Afghan’s ears from getting soaked with food while eating.
Afghan Hounds need annual checkups to stay healthy. Vaccinations are due as follows:

•6-8 weeks: Distemper, Leptospirosis, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, Parvo, and Corona virus (DHLPPC)
•10-12 weeks: Second DHLPPC
•14-16 weeks: Third DHLPPC and rabies
•Annually: DHLPPC and rabies booster

The Afghan sheds moderately. If kept inside, frequent vacuuming is advisable. Allergies are also common in the breed, so regular dusting is important. An air purifier may help reduce allergy symptoms for dogs kept indoors.

Housing Your Dog
Afghans need plenty of room to exercise. It is inactive when indoors, and is not the best choice for apartment life. It may live outdoors full-time, but usually prefers to sleep indoors. Sturdy food and water bowls are important, because the Afghan may chew them if bored or nervous. It’s also a good idea to provide a soft bed, because this breed’s protruding bones could cause sores if it sleeps on a hard surface.

Related Video:

Social Behaviors
Afghan Hounds get along well with humans, including children, but they are sensitive to stress. They may, however, be too rambunctious as puppies for young children, and even as adults they might chase them. They are not to be trusted with small pets, including cats and dogs of small size.

Handling and Training
This is a very stubborn breed, and its independence can make obedience training and housebreaking quite difficult. Proper handling and socialization from a young age is essential in order to keep them from being too timid or jumpy.

Activities
Daily walks are very important for Afghans. They also need ample time to run free in a fenced area each day.

Breeding/Reproduction
Afghans have few genetic problems. Things to avoid in a potential mate for your dog include cancer, heart problems, and chylothorax in their lineage. Average litter size is eight puppies.

Common Health Problems
Overall, the Afghan is a healthy breed. They do tend to be sensitive to anesthesia, primarily because of their low body fat. Other common problems are allergies, cancer, and urological problems.
Chylothorax, although rare, is more common in this breed than most. This is a condition in which the thorassic ducts leak, allowing fluid to ender the lungs and possibly causing them to twist inside the chest cavity. This condition requires surgery and can be deadly.

Availability
Afghan puppies are somewhat rare, but breeders may be located online. Prices usually range from $800 to $1,200, although some sell for over $2,000.

In America, the feline has officially replaced the canine as the most popular pet and the beloved pet of choice. More families in the USA have cats now than dogs – and the majority of families with cats have more than one feline sharing their home.

As more and more people are realizing the high risks in these modern times of letting their cat roam outdoors – (the current statistics are very grim in that outdoor only and indoor/outdoor cats without human supervision now live an average of only 2 to 3 years, versus an average of 16 to 17 years for indoor only cats), in order to keep our cats healthy and safe, we are keeping them confined indoors.

It is not a coincidence, however, that as this change has taken place, the incidence of feline behavior problems such as self-mutilation, excessive self-licking, marking with urine or feces, and loud, compulsive vocalization, has been on the rise – all with no apparent physical or medical cause.

This phenomenon is not limited to house cats, but is also happening in zoos, and other areas and parks where felines are confined. Behaviorists at the San Diego Zoo, however, have discovered that simply by adding some safe, creative challenges each day within the enclosures of their Indo-Chinese Tigers, for example, keep these felines stimulated, both physically and mentally, and they are happier and live longer, without displaying some of the same compulsive behaviors as their indoor domestic feline relatives.

Boredom, loneliness, and a lack of challenge can be extremely stressful to cats. The feline by nature is inquisitive, social, and playful, and when their lives become so isolated, without adventures to observe or participate in, and without any trouble to get into or new things in their environment to explore, they can get depressed, and perhaps even feel no sense of purpose to their lives. This of course, can lead them to becoming lethargic and more susceptible to illness.

So, what are the options available for providing more stimulation for your own indoor cat?? The two key words that most feline behaviorists agree upon seem to be: “variety” and “randomness”. Remember that indoor only cats left alone all day don’t get to hear their humans voices, observe their humans interacting, witness visitors, hear appliances, phones, etc., or even receive those pats on the head and cuddles. Quite often a relatively simple solution is to – get another cat!! Taking care of 2 felines is really not much more work than taking care of one, and they can definitely keep each other company when their humans are away by wrestling, chasing each other, grooming each other, talking to each other, sleeping together, etc.

Another solution is – TOYS!! A variety of toys, given sporadically, then hidden for awhile so they don’t lose their novelty is a MUST for indoor cats. Toys don’t have to be expensive, either. Most cats love to chase wadded up aluminum foil, and chomp on plastic drinking straws. You can try hiding your cat’s favorite toys before you leave in the morning, and create a sort of “treasure hunt” for him, which will engage his love of the hunt. (Make sure he sees you hiding at least a few of the toys!!) A special new toy with fresh catnip will often keep your cat entertained for hours – be aware that most catnip sold in pet stores is old and does not have the freshness needed for most cats to truly have a reaction to it. Fresh catnip is perfectly safe, and our adult cats love having “catnip parties” all by themselves, where they happily tear away at the toy, releasing more and more of the catnip, which they then roll in ecstatically!!

There are some motorized toys that are lots of fun, as long as you don’t overdo them. These toys will often have a fur tail or look like a small mouse or rodent, but move erratically, just like a real “prey” would in the wild. This can really get your cat excited and involved in the process of trying to “catch” this unusual prey. Another fun and inexpensive thing to do is to build a “maze” out of paper grocery bags (remove any handles, of course, and use tape rather than staples for safety). My son used to do this when he was younger, sometimes attaching 20 or more paper bags, with holes cut out so that the paper bag maze would wind in and our all around our living room!! Of course, little treats and toys can be hidden along the way, and several ways “out” of the maze are provided, too.

Try setting your television (or video cassette recorder) to turn on at certain times of the day while you are away, to sports stations, or animal programs that your kitty might find interesting. Or, keep the radio turned on low a couple of days a week. Remember – VARIEY and RANDOMNESS!! Also try letting your cat into your bathroom while you are gone, being sure to keep all dangerous or sharp objects carefully put away. Ping pong balls and other small round balls in a dry bathtub can be quite fun, as can a few ice cubes, before they melt!! Many cats also enjoy climbing in and out of small cardboard boxes. If you have a small stuffed animal you are willing to sacrifice, especially one with legs and a tail, you just might find your cat adopting it and mothering it!! A good rule of thumb with toys is to always have a toy for “babying”, a toy for “killing or stalking” and a toy for “carrying” at any one time, rotating them for variety, of course.

We can’t forget about the importance of cat furniture, either, and the need your cat has to climb, explore different heights and surfaces, etc. A good tall cat stand with a variety of scratching surfaces will also increase your cat’s sense of “territory”, and will greatly add to his quality of life. And, setting up little perches or hammocks at your windows will also increase the variety your cat will be able to observe of the outdoors, which will also keep him entertained and content.

There are also a number of excellent wand toys available, which are not to be left alone with your kitty, but which are to be used interactively, with you playing with your cat. Playing with your cat in this way especially before bedtime, can be enjoyable for both of you and help your nocturnal hunter to actually settle down and sleep at night!! And lastly, a word of warning about toys – be sure to kitty-proof your home from items that a cat may find enticing, but which are actually harmful to him, such as paper clips, rubber bands, feathers, strings, or any other small items which could be ingested by your kitty. And for the soft toys, be sure they are labeled as safe for children under 3 years old as that way you’ll know they don’t contain harmful fillings. Remember that your domestic feline is genetically still very closely related to his and her wild ancestors. While it is our responsibility to keep our pet kittens and cats safe and indoors, we need to respect the need for this fantastic creature to use their natural instincts to stalk, hunt, meet challenges, explore their territory – in short, to be a healthy, happy and active cat!!

Pills

1. Hold the pill between your thumb and finger in one hand.
2. Use your other hand to hold the cat’s mouth open with the head tilted slightly back. You can do this by placing your thumb and middle finger in the sides of the mouth (keeping the palm of your hand resting under the cat’s jaw or on the back of the head, whichever is easier for you).
3. Place the pill as far back in the throat as you can (do this very quickly)
4. Shut the cat’s mouth and keep holding the cat’s head back slightly.
5. Massage the cat’s throat slightly (to stimulate swallowing) for about 10 seconds.
6. Watch the cat to make sure he/she swallows before releasing his/her head.

You may also want to keep an eye on him/her for a few minutes afterwards to make sure there is no vomiting.

Liquids

There are two approaches that can be used to syringe feedings that seem to work well.

1. Hold the cat on your lap (sit on the floor with your knees bent upwards) so the cat can be sitting with his/her back on your legs, facing your face and sitting up fairly straight.
2. Put your hand around the back of the cat’s head so that the thumb and middle finger are placed in the sides of the cats mouth. This way the fingers are holding the cat’s mouth open.
3. Tip the cat’s head back at an angle (for easier swallowing) and place little squirts of food/medicine into the cat’s mouth.
For medicine that tastes bad you may want to hold the cat’s mouth shut and the head tilted back with one hand and stoke the throat with the other hand to help the cat swallow rather than just spit it out.

OR…

1. Kneel down behind the cat (while the cat is standing or sitting) so that the cat is kind of between your knees and facing away from you.
2. From this position hold the cat’s head (same thing with the fingers in the side of the mouth and head tilted) with one hand and feed with the other hand.
3. This is easier with a cat that isn’t as trusting or used to lying down or on his/her back.

Tips

1. If your cat tends to vomit after taking a pill you might want to feed him/her a treat after taking the pill. This will put a ‘good taste’ in your cat’s mouth and help your cat forget about the pill.
2. You can purchase a pill gun at your local pet store if you have trouble giving your pet pills.
3. You can also crush up pills and hide them in your cat’s food if your cat has trouble with the whole pill-swallowing process.

It takes a fair amount of chocolate to kill a pet, but chocolate can be toxic. It contains a xanthine compound called theobromine. Caffeine is another xanthine compound.

The toxic dose of theobromine is about 70 mg per pound of pet, but like many substances, it all depends on the sensitivity of the patient.

Milk chocolate contains 6 mg of theobromine per ounce. Semi-sweet chocolate contains about 22 mg/oz. and baking chocolate about 350 to 400 mg/oz.

I did have a small dog who ate a large candy bar die early on in my practice but since then I’ve had lot’s of calls where sypmtoms were just mild GI upset, but xanthines affect the central nervous system, the cardiovascular system and peripheral nerves. Signs include hyperexitablility, hyper irritability, increased heart rate, increased urination, vomiting and muscular tremors or seizures.

Making the pet vomit is helpful if it’s withing an hour or so of ingesting the chocolate and giving an absorbent like activated charcoal might help, but the main part of treatment for chocolate intoxication involves treating the symptoms: controlling seizures, heart arrthymias, intestinal spasms and diarrhea, and supportive therapy like Oxygen and IV fluids. This is a job for your vet.

Cocoa Mulch, which is sold by Home Depot, Foreman’s Garden Supply and other Garden supply stores, contains a lethal ingredient called “Theobromine”. It is lethal to dogs and cats. It smells like chocolate and it really attracts dogs. They will ingest this stuff and die. Several deaths already occurred in the last 2-3 weeks. Just a word of caution — check what you are using in your gardens and be aware of what your gardeners are using in your gardens. Theobromine is the ingredient that is used to make all chocolate — especially dark or baker’s chocolate — which is toxic to dogs. Cocoa bean shells contain potentially toxic quantities of Theobromine, a xanthine compound similar in effects to caffeine and theophylline. A dog that ingested a lethal quantity of garden mulch made from cocoa bean shells developed severe convulsions and died 17 hours later. Analysis of the stomach contents and the ingested cocoa bean shells revealed the presence of lethal amounts of Theobromine.