Dog, Cat, and Pet Care Tips

27 May, 2010

Is your Cat Choking?

Posted by: admin In: Cats

Is your Cat Choking?

Cats can choke if they try to ingest something that is very large and/or gets lodged in their mouth or throat. If your cat is unconscious you should perform CPR. However, if your cat is still conscious you will want to try to either open the mouth and remove the obstruction with your fingers or tweezers or perform the heimlich maneuver if the object is out of reach.

Symptoms to look for:
- Pawing at the mouth
- Drooling
- Gagging

If you can reach the obstruction:
- Open the mouth and pull the tongue forward.
- Look into the mouth for any foreign objects and try to dislodge them with your fingers, forceps or tweezers.
- If you can’t reach the obstruction:

In this case you will need to perform the heimlich maneuver. This is a technique developed by U.S. surgeon Henry J. Heimlich, M.D. to dislodge food or another object that is blocking breathing in a conscious victim. The technique involves applying pressure to the abdomen with a series of quick, forceful thrusts.

Kneel on the ground and hold your cat with one arm under his/her ‘armpits’ and chest. Your cat should be ‘standing erect’ on his/her hind feet with his/her back touching your chest.

With your other hand place your fist just below the last rib, where the diaphragm is located.

Give two or three quick pushes upward. This should force air into the windpipe dislodging whatever is blocking the airway.

Medical and care advice on this article is for your knowledge and information only. It is not a substitute for a veterinary appointment or an actual diagnosis for your pet. If you feel your pet has a health or behavior problem please consult your veterinarian immediately for specific advice tailored to your individual pet.

27 May, 2010

Cataracts in Cats

Posted by: admin In: Cats

Cataracts in Cats

Cataracts commonly occurs in animals and can strike pets of all ages. You will notice the cataract as a blue-gray tint in the cat’s lens (the lens is normally dark and clear). The lens is contained in a sealed bag or capsule. As old cells die they become trapped within the capsule. Over time, the cells accumulate causing the lens to look cloudy or opaque. This makes the images that the cat sees blurred or fuzzy. A cataracts does not cause any pain but it will damage the cat’s ability to see clearly at night and will eventually lead to nearsightedness (this is the opposite of how cat’s normally see).

Cataracts usually occurs with age but may also be caused by metabolic disorders such as diabetes mellitus, inherited tendencies, or degenerative retinal diseases.

Symptoms to look for:
- Blue-gray tinted eye lens

Treatment:
A cataracts can be removed surgically by a veterinary ophthalmologist. This will improve the cat’s vision.

Precautionary measures:
Most cataracts occur simply with age, however you can help prevent cataracts by keeping your cat indoors to reduce injury to the eye through fights. Also keep your cat healthy and make sure he/she has a proper diet. Cataracts and diabetes have been seen to be linked so keeping your cat healthy can be as good a prevention as any.

Medical and care advice on this article is for your knowledge and information only. It is not a substitute for a veterinary appointment or an actual diagnosis for your pet. If you feel your pet has a health or behavior problem please consult your veterinarian immediately for specific advice tailored to your individual pet.

27 May, 2010

Bronchitis in Cats

Posted by: admin In: Cats

Bronchitis in Cats

Bronchitis is an inflammation of the bronchi (the air passages to the lungs). The bronchi can become inflamed due to a number of reasons including respiratory infection, allergens or irritants.

Bronchitis can be seen in two different forms. Acute bronchitis is generally caused by a viral infection, it comes on quickly and is usually short lived if treated properly. Cats with acute bronchitis will have an irritating, dry, painful cough that is persistent and will produce a yellow/green sputum. Cats may also have a low to medium grade fever. Chronic bronchitis will usually be seen after repeated attacks of acute bronchitis. The symptoms are similar to that of acute bronchitis but this type will last much longer. It is aggravated by smoking and by harmful environmental conditions, such as air polluted by chemicals, smoke, and dust.

Due to the stress on the respiratory system that chronic bronchitis produces, the bronchial walls may become thicker. This will render the cat more susceptible to other infections and can lead to asthma, emphysema or pneumonia.

Symptoms to look for:
- Coughing
- Wheezing
- Sneezing
- Yellow/Green sputum
- Fever
- Lethargy
- Loss of appetite

Treatment:
If you suspect any respiratory infection or bronchitis take your cat to the vet immediately. Your cat will most likely need to be kept in a warm, humid room, with frequent steam inhalations from a vaporizer. This will assist in softening the infected mucus in the bronchi. Your vet might also prescribe some type of expectorant. This will help the cat get rid of the mucus and fluid in the bronchi. Antibiotics may also be prescribed to ward off any current or potential infections. After an attack of acute bronchitis you will need to watch for any further colds or respiratory infections or any change in sputum.

Precautionary measures:
Keep your cat inside and warm, especially in winter months. Try to keep dust, pollens, allergens and smoke to a minimum in the home. And if you suspect any sort of respiratory infection take your cat to the vet immediately for diagnosis and treatment.

Medical and care advice on this article is for your knowledge and information only. It is not a substitute for a veterinary appointment or an actual diagnosis for your pet. If you feel your pet has a health or behavior problem please consult your veterinarian immediately for specific advice tailored to your individual pet.

27 May, 2010

Plants that are Non-Poisonous to Dogs and Cats

Posted by: admin In: Dogs

Plants that are Non-Poisonous to Dogs and Cats

Below is a list of plants that are not poisonious to dogs and cats.

This list was put together by the Animal Poison Control Center. More information can be found by visiting ASPCA’s web site. Should your dog or cat eat one of these plants and have a reaction; take your pet and a sample of the plant to your local vet immediately.

A
Achira
Acorn squash
African violet
Algaroba
Aluminum plant
Alumroot
American rubber
Anthericum comosum
Antirrhinum multiflorum
Arabian gentian
Aregelia
Artillery plant
Aspidium falcatum
Aubepine
Autumn olive

B
Bachelors buttons
Ball fern
Bamboo
Bamboo palm
Bamboo vine
Banana
Banana squash
Begonia species
Belmore sentry palm
Big shellbark hickory
Bitter pecan
Bitternut
Black haw
Black hawthorn
Blaspheme vine
Bloodleaf
Blooming sally
Bluebottle
Blue bead
Blue daisy
Blue echeveria
Blue-dicks
Blue-eyed daisy
Blunt leaf peperomia
Blushing bromeliad
Bold sword fern
Boston fern
Bottlebrush
Bottle Palm
Brazilian orchid
Bride’s bonnet
Bristly greenbrier
Broom hickory
Brodiaea pulchella
Butterfly ginger
Butterfly iris
Bullbrier
Bur gourd
Burro’s tail
Buttercup squash
Butterfly squash

C
Caeroba
Calathea insignis
Calthea lancifolia
California pitcher plant
Callistemon bradyandrus
Callistemon viminalis
Callistemon citrinus
Calochortus nuttalli
Camellia
Canada hemlock
Canary date palm
Candle plant
Candycorn plant
Canna lily
Cantebury-bell
Cape jasmine
Cape primrose
Carob
Carob tree
Caroba
Carobinha
Carolina hemlock
Carrion flower
Carrot flower
Carrot fern
Casaba melon
Cast Iron plant
Cat brier
Cat ear
Cattleya labiata
Celosia globosa
Celosia plumosa
Celosia spicata
Chamaedorean
Chaparral
Chenille plant
Chestnut
Chicken-gizzard
Chickens and hens
Chin-lao-shu
China aster
China root
Chinese plumbago
Chlorophytum
Chlorophytum bechetii
Chocolate soldier
Christmas dagger
Christmas palm
Christmas orchid
Cinnamon
Cinquefoil
Cirrhopetalum
Clearweed
Cliff brake
Cocks comb
Cocktail orchid
Collinia elegans
Color-band
Columnar
Common camellia
Common catbrier
Common garden canna
Common greenbrier
Common snapdragon
Common staghorn fern
Confederate jasmine
Coolwort
Copperlead
Copper rose
Coralardisia
Coral bells
Coralberry
Cornflower
Crape myrtle
Crataegus phaenopyrum
Crataegus spp.
Creeping charlie
Creeping gloxinia
Creeping mahonia
Creeping pilea
Creeping rubus
Creeping zinnia
Crepe myrtle
Crimson bottlebush
Crimson cup
Crisped feather fern
Crossandra
Cucumber
Cushon aloe
Cushion moss
Cyrtudeira reptans

D
Dainty
Dainty rabbits-foot fern
Dallas fern
Dancing doll orchid
Davallia bullata mariessi
Davallia trichomanoides
Desert trumpet
Dichelostemma
Dichorisandra reginae
Dinteranthus vanzylii
Duffii fern
Duffy fern
Dwarf date palm
Dwarf feather fern
Dwarf palm
Dwarf Rose-Stripe Star
Dwarf royal palm
Dwarf whitman fern

E
Earth star
Easter cattleya
Easter daisy
Easter lily cactus
Easter orchid
Edible banana
Elephant-Ear Begonia
Emerald ripple peperomia
English hawthorn
Epidendrum atropurpeum
Epidendrum ibaguense
Epidendrum
Episcia spp.

F
False aralia
Fairy fountain
Fan tufted palm
Feather fern
Feathered amaranth
Fiery reed orchid
Fig leaf gourd
Figleaf palm
Fingernail plant
Fire weed
Fish tail fern
Flame african violet
Flame of the woods
Flame violet
Florida butter-fly orchid
Fluffy ruffles
Forster sentry palm
Fortunes palm
Freckle face
Friendship plant
Frosty
G
Garden marigold
Garden snapdragon
German violet
Gherkins
Ghost leafless orchid
Ghost plant
Giant aster
Giant holly fern
Giant white inch plant
Gibasis geniculata
Globe thistle
Gloxinia
Gold bloom
Gold-fish plant
Golden bells
Golden lace orchid
Golden shower orchid
Good luck palm
Grape hyacinth
Grape Ivy
Great willow herb
Green ripple peperomia
Greenbrier

H
Hagbrier
Hardy baby tears
Hardy gloxinia
Haws
Haws apple
Haworthia
Hawthorn
Hedgehog gourd
Hellfetter
Hemlock tree
Hen and chickens fern
Hens and chickens
Hickory
Hindu rope plant
Holligold
Holly fern
Hollyhock
Honey locust
Honey plant
Honeydew melons
Honeysuckle fuchsia
Hookera pulchella
Horse brier
Hoya carnosa ‘exotica’
Hoya carnosa ‘krinkle’
Hoya carnosa ‘variegata’
Hoya ‘Mauna Loa’
Hubbard squash
Hypocyrta spp.

I
Ice plant
Imbricata sword fern
Irish moss
Iron cross begonia
Iron tree
Ivy peperomia
Ivy-leaf peperomia

J
Jackson brier
Jacob’s ladder
Japanese aralia
Japanese holly fern
Japanese moss
Japanese pittosporum
Jasmine
Jewel orchid
Joseph’s coat
Jungle geranium

K
Kaempferis
Kahali ginger
Kenilworth ivy
Kentia palm
Kenya palm
Kenya violet
Kharoub
King nut
King of the forest
King and queen fern
Kuang-yen- pa-hsieh

L
Lace flower vine
Lace orchid
Ladies ear drops
Lady lou
Lady palm
Lagerstroemia indica
Lance Pleumele
Large
Lady Palm
Laurel-leaved greenbrier
Leather peperomia
Leng-fen tu’an
Leopard lily
Leopard orchid
Lesser snapdragon
Linden
Lipstick plant
Little zebra plant
Little fantasy peperomia
Living rock cactus
Living stones
Locust pods
Lou-lang-t’ou
Luther

M
Madagascar jasmine
Magnolia bush
Mahonia aquifolium
Malabar gourd
Malaysian dracaema
Manila palm
Mapleleaf begonia
Maranta
Marbled fingernail
Mariposa lily
Maroon
Mary-bud
Measles plant
Melons
Metallic peperomia
Metallic leaf begonia
Mexican firecracker
Mexican rosettes
Mexican snowballs
Miniature date palm
Minature fish tail
Minature maranta
Minature marble plant
Mistletoe cactus
Mockernut hickory
Mosaic plant
Mosiac vase
Moss agate
Moss campion
Moss fern
Moss phlox
Moss rose
Mossy campion
Mother fern
Mother spleenwort
Mother of pearl
Mountain camellia
Mountain grape
Mulberry bush greenbrier
Mulberry tree
Musa paradisiaca
Muscari armeniacum
Muscari spp.
Muskmellon

N
Narrow leafed pleomele
Natal plum
Neanthe bella palm
Nematanthus spp.
Neanthebella
Neoregelia
Nephrolepsis
Nerve plant
New silver and bronze
Night blooming cereus

O
Odontoglossum spp.
Old man cactus
Old world orchid
Orange star
Oregon grape
Ossifragi vase

P
Paddys wig
Painted lady
Palm lily
Pampus grass
Panamiga
Pansy orchid
Paradise palm
Parlor palm
Parlor plant
Parsley fern
Peace begonia
Peacock plant
Pearl plant
Pearly dots
Peperomia hederifolia
Peperomia peltifolia
Peperomia rotundifolia
Peperomia sandersii
Pepper face
Persian violet
Pheasant plant
Piggy back plant
Pigmy date palm
Pignut
Pignut hickory
Pilea microphylla
Pilea mucosa
Pink Brocade
Pink Pearl
Pink polka dot plant
Pink starlite
Pirliteiro
Pitaya
Plantanus orientalis
Plantanus occidentalis
Platinum peperomia
Platycerium alicicorne
Plumbago larpentiae
Plush plant
Polka dot plant
Polystichum falcatum
Pony tail
Porcelain flower
Pot marigold
Prairie lily
Prairie snowball
Prayer plant
Prickly bottlebrush
Prostrate coleus
Purple baby tears
Purple passion vine
Purple waffle plant
Purpleosier willow

Q
Queen’s spiderwort
Queencup
Queens spiderwort
Queensland arrowroot

R
Rabbits foot fern
Rainbow orchid
Red african violet
Red berried greenbrier
Red edge peperomia
Red hawthorne
Red palm lily
Red veined prayer
Reed palm
Resurrection lily
Rex begonia
Rhynchophorum
Ribbon plant (Chlorophytum comosum)
Roosevelt fern
Royal velvet plant
Rubber plant, baby
Russian olive

S
Saffron spike zebra
Saint Bernards lily
Sand lily
Sand verbena
Satin pellionia
Sawbrier
Scabious
Scarborough lily
Scarlet orchid
Scarlet sage
Sego lily
Shagbark hickory
Shan ku’ei-lai
Shellbark hickory
Shiny leaf smilax
Shrimp cactus
Silver bell
Silver berry
Silver heart
Silver-leaf peperomia
Silver nerve plant
Silver pink vine
Silver star
Silver table fern
Silver tree anamiga
Slender deutzia
Small fruited hickory
Smilax tamnoides vas
Speckled wood lily
Spice orchid
Spider ivy
Spider plant
Spotted laurel
Squarenut
Squirrels foot fern
Star jasmine
Star lily
Star plant
Star tulip
Star window plant
Strawberry
Striped blushing
Sugar pods
Sulfur flower
Summer hyacinth
Swedish ivy
Sweetheart hoya
Sweetheart peperomia
Sweet william
Sword fern

T
Tahitian bridal veil
Tailed orchid
Tall feather fern
Tall mahonia
Teasel gourd
Texas sage
Thea japonica
Thimble cactus
Thorn apple
Ti hu-ling
Tiger orchid
Toad spotted cactus
Torch lily
Tous-les-mois
Trailing peperomia
Tree cactus
Tree gloxinia
Tropical moss
True cantalope
Tu fu-ling
Tulip poplar
Tulip tree
Turban squash
Turf lily

U
Umbrella plant
Urbinia agavoides
Usambara violet

V
Variegated laurel
Variegated oval leaf peperomia
Variegated philodendron leaf
Variegated wandering jew
Variegated wax plant
Velvet plant
Venus fly trap
Verona fern
Verona lace fern
Vining peperomia
Violet slipper gloxinia

W
Waffle plant
Walking anthericum
Washington hawthorn
Water hickory
Watermelon begonia
Watermelon peperomia
Watermelon pilea
Wax plant
Wax rosette
Weeping bottlebrush
Weeping sergeant hemlock
Weisdornbluten
West indian gherkin
Western sword
White ginger
White edged swedish ivy
White heart hickory
Whitman fern
Wild buckwheat
Wild buckwheat
Wild hyacinth
Wild lantana
Wild sarsaparilla
Wild strawberry
Willow herb
Windmill palm
Winter cattleya
Withered snapdragon
Woolflower

Y
Yellow bloodleaf
Yellow-flowered gourd
Yerba linda

Z
Zebra haworthia
Zebra plant
Zinnia sp.
Zucchini squash

27 May, 2010

Cranky canine

Posted by: admin In: Dogs

Nobody wants an angry pet but what can be done if your four-legged friend wakes up on the wrong side of the bed?

Donna and Gav have written in about their two-year-old, male, Cavalier King Charles spaniel who is showing signs of aggression towards them: “When we first got him we would walk past him in his bed and he would growl, as if to warn us to go away and as if he would snap at us next…. He will also take our shoes and if we went to get them back he growls and it’s like he uses it for comfort. Since we got him we have shown him much love and affection and he has got better but he still does growl at certain times. You could just be walking over to open the curtains and if he’s in a mood he will growl. We have another Cavalier King Charles spaniel and they get on, it’s just the growling warning noise he gives us. We tell him no and tried to spray him with water every time he does this as punishment but that didn’t work.”

See what Blue Cross head of animal behaviour, Julie Bedford has to say about the issue.

Animals can exhibit many different types of aggression when they feel vulnerable or are simply over-excited. Much like any relationship in life, understanding your pet and its behavioural patterns will take time and patience.

Sometimes the cause of your pet’s behaviour may not be obvious. Wendy Adams, chief vet at The Blue Cross animal hospital in Grimsby, advises to first look for any medical problems that might be causing your pet to behave in an unusual manner.

She says: “Sometimes our pets show aggressive behaviour towards us because they are in pain, so it is very important to rule this out before tackling any behavioural issues. Dogs can break a tooth if they enjoy crunching tough objects and this can lead to a broken tooth exposing the nerve which would be agonising for your dog and not easy for you to spot. Arthritis can also crop up in younger dogs and some breeds can also develop painful congenital conditions which, if your dog is suffering from one, will cause him a great deal of pain and make him defensive. It is worth booking a full check-up with your vet to be on the safe side.”

Once health problems are eliminated, seek advice from a qualified animal behaviourist. Pet owners who are eligible for vet services at The Blue Cross animal hospital also have access to a team of animal behaviourists for help and advice if it is needed. Other pet owners could consider seeking professional advice and although it may seem expensive, the personal support, advice and training from a professional may save you the risk of being badly bitten later on. Think of it as an investment in your pet, you may even be covered by your pet insurance.

If your pet is acting in a troublesome way, it can be easy to feel frustrated and annoyed but it is important to maintain your cool. Blue Cross head of animal behaviour, Julie Bedford, says: “It is really important not to punish your dog when he is growling because confrontation makes you appear threatening and this is likely to increase his aggression. Instead, you need to teach him to willingly back off items when you say “off”, if your dog is stealing or guarding toys. You can teach this by using tasty titbits such as cooked chicken or fish.

• Have tiny pieces (about the size of your little finger nail) of something he really likes.

• Give him a piece at a time saying “take it” as you give it to him.

• Occasionally as you hold the titbit between your finger and thumb say “off”. Only say “off” once (and make sure it is in a calm, friendly voice – it is important that this is just seen as an instruction not a telling-off). Keep hold of the titbit and if he tries nibbling and licking, just ignore it.

• As soon as he moves his mouth away say, “take it” in a happy voice and move the treat towards him and allow him to take it.

• Remember to do many more “take its” than “off” to keep his interest and enthusiasm

• When he has learned this on food you can use it during play.

Until you can get a qualified behaviourist to come and assess your situation here are some emergency measures to prevent your dog from ’stealing’ your items and prevent his growls.

Firstly, he does not realise the value of the items he steals, just that some items are more likely to engage you in ‘chase’ game. This makes the stolen object high-value to him and encourages him to compete over taking it and even guard it from you – almost in the same way you may be taking the item from him and hiding it out of his reach. If you are in a situation where he gets an item he shouldn’t have (like your shoes) ignore him but pick up one of his toys and play with it. Don’t look at him or try to encourage him to come to you, just focus on the toy. He will come and try to join in but continue to grab the toy away from him for a few more seconds. When he drops the shoe to focus on your more exciting game with the toy, carry on and surreptitiously remove the shoe.

Occasionally when your dog picks up one of his toys that you leave around the house, react in the same way as you currently do when he has something he shouldn’t have. This competition will make him more interested in toys and see things that he shouldn’t have, such as shoes, as boring.

You already have an idea of when and where your dog growls at you as you approach, for example when you open the curtains. Rather than let him practice this behaviour, plan ahead and call him away from his ‘growly’ areas before you need to go into them. As soon as he moves away give him a treat for responding. Practice this a few times a day, not just when you want to go to open or close the curtains. He will quickly move away from the areas and you will have the opportunity to reward him which will help build a trusting, positive relationship.”

27 May, 2010

Antifreeze Poisoning and Dogs & Cats

Posted by: admin In: Dogs

Antifreeze Poisoning and Dogs & Cats

Ethylene Glycol (Radiator Fluid) Toxicity
Signs of antifreeze poisoning depend upon the time after ingestion. In the first few hours after ingestion the pet may be depressed and staggering and may have seizures. They may drink lots of water, urinate large amounts and vomit. The pet may appear to feel better but in a day or two get much worse as the kidneys fail. Signs of kidney failure include depression and vomiting. The amount of urine they pass will often decrease to a very small amount.

More Information about AntiFreeze Poisoning
Poisoning by antifreeze, or ethylene glycol, is one of the most common small animal toxicities, particularly in the cold north. Every year do-it-yourself motorists get out the gear needed to winterize their vehicles, including antifreeze. Unfortunately, this poison has a sweet taste and spilled or leaked antifreeze is lapped up by many dogs and cats in quantities sufficient to cause severe sickness and even death.

It takes only about 1/2 teaspoon per pound for a dog to get a toxic dose of ethylene glycol, the active ingredient in antifreeze, and less for a cat. Although the poison affects both the animal’s neurological and kidney function, the most severe damage usually involves the kidneys.

Clinical signs in affected animals include depression, incoordination, vomiting, and seizures. The best way to combat antifreeze poisoning is by preventing the animal from having the opportunity to drink the poison. Keep all containers tightly closed when not in use and clean up spills immediately. It should be noted that this toxin affects people as well as pets and that small children are also at risk for ethylene glycol poisoning.

There is currently a new product on the market (one trade name is Sierra) which claims to be safer than other brands of antifreeze. This product contains propylene glycol as its active ingredient. If ingested, it can still cause the nervous system injury resulting in incoordination and possibly seizures but does not cause the more frequently fatal kidney damage. It is clear using such a product would pose less of a health hazard. The best advice remains, however, to always use any potentially toxic product carefully to prevent accidental poisoning in the first place.

Even More Information about AntiFreeze Poisoning from the

TEXTBOOK OF VETERINARY INTERNAL MEDICINE

Client Information Series written by Dr. Denise A. Elliott

Ethylene glycol is the principal ingredient of radiator fluid that is responsible for antifreeze poisoning in dogs and cats. Antifreeze poisoning is most common in the fall and spring, when radiator fluid is inadvertently abandoned in streets and garages after automobile radiator fluid is changed. Antifreeze is colorless, odorless, and has a sweet taste that dogs and small children find appealing and will readily drink.

Cats are less likely to drink unknown fluids. It is suspected that cat poisoning occurs after cats have walked through anti-freeze and ingest it when they clean their feet. As little as a teaspoon of antifreeze is sufficient to cause death in cats and a tablespoon is all that is required to poison dogs.

Poisoning classically proceeds through three stages. Absorption after ingestion is rapid and initial signs occur within 30 minutes to 12 hours. Ethylene glycol is an alcohol; hence during the initial phase the animals appear “drunk” and consequently exhibit many of the classical signs associated with alcohol intoxication: staggering, stumbling, and incoor-dination. Vomiting, nausea, extreme thirst, and frequent uri-nation are also observed. Some animals simply sleep through this period and owners are not aware that poisoning has occurred.

At the end of the first phase, the clinical signs resolve and the animal appears to have recovered. The second phase of intoxication occurs 12 to 24 hours after poisoning. The heart rate and breathing rate are rapid, but this is rarely noticed by owners.

Unfortunately, most dogs and cats poisoned with antifreeze are not recognized until the third stage, when kidney damage becomes apparent and kidney (renal) failure occurs.

Ethylene glycol is converted by the liver to more toxic substances (metabolites) that are responsi-ble for the majority of injury to tissues including the kidney, liver, lungs, and heart. Signs of kidney failure include severe depression, vomiting, and diarrhea. The kidneys stop produc-ing urine and toxins normally excreted by the kidney build up in the body, resulting in a life-threatening situation.

Early diagnosis of poisoning is often difficult because of an inadequate history and the nonspecific clinical signs, which can mimic those of many other conditions. A high index of suspicion is vital for rapid diagnosis, and it is important not to rule out ethylene glycol poisoning because the owner has not seen the pet exposed to radiator fluid. Laboratory findings are often the key to making the diagnosis. Tests that support a diagnosis of ethylene glycol poisoning are available to your veterinarian.

Treatment involves preventing absorption from the stomach, increasing removal from the body, and preventing the alteration of ethylene glycol to its more toxic components. If poisoning is witnessed, vomiting should be induced immediately and the stomach cleaned out with activated charcoal. Your veterinarian will need to give intravenous fluid solutions. Additional treatment depends on the stage of the disease. If the animal is not in kidney failure, drugs to stop the metabolism of ethylene glycol or methods for directly removing the ethylene glycol and its metabolites from the body are indicated.

Ethanol (alcohol) and 4-methylprazole (fomepizole; Antizol-Vet) stop the metabolism of ethylene glycol; however, these drugs must be administered within several hours of poisoning and are ineffective when kidney damage had occurred. An effective dose of 4-methylprazole to stop the conversion of ethylene glycol has not been identified for cats, so its use is not recommended in cats. Peritoneal dialysis and hemodialysis are two techniques with which the poisons may be removed from the body.

If the animal is in kidney failure, techniques to support kidney function are required. Medications to encourage the kidney to produce urine are administered but are often futile, and advanced techniques such as peritoneal dialysis or hemo-dialysis that replace the function of the failing kidneys may be necessary. Both of these procedures require referral to a speciality center. Support must be provided until the kidneys can heal, which may take several weeks to months, and in some animals the damage is too severe and recovery is not possible. In these patients, kidney transplantation may be indicated to replace the crippled kidneys.

The most common problem caused by antifreeze poisoning is sudden kidney failure, and it is associated with a high death rate. The prognosis for animals to recover from acute kidney failure is poor; however, the prognosis has improved with the advent of hemodialysis, which provides support until the kidneys can regenerate. Antifreeze poisoning is a deadly disease. Prevention requires public awareness and responsible disposal of radiator fluid.

The advent of less toxic antifreeze compounds such as propylene glycol will reduce the frequency of antifreeze poisoning in companion animals.

27 May, 2010

Fatty Acids for Pet Skin and Haircoat Health

Posted by: admin In: Cats

Fatty Acids for Pet Skin and Haircoat Health

You’ve probably heard that proper amounts of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids in your pet’s diet can make for healthy skin and haircoat. But what exactly are fatty acids? Which ones do your pets need? Are the fatty acids in commercial foods enough? In this article, we’ll look at the basics of these dietary building blocks to help you understand what your pets need and where to find it.

First, let’s take a look at fats. In small amounts, fats are a natural part of a healthy diet for both pets and their people. Some special fats, known as fatty acids, are especially important for the general health of any animal species, particularly to maintain healthy skin and haircoat.

Fatty acids are one of three categories of dietary fats (or lipids):

Oils – lipids which are liquid at room temperatureFats – lipids which are solid at room temperatureFatty acids — fats with a particular chemical structure Essential fatty acids, or EFAs, are those fatty acids that a species requires that it can’t make from other sources. Linoleic acid is an example of an EFA for dogs, and cats require both linoleic and arachidonic EFAs.

Fatty acids are further grouped into categories including omega-3 and omega-6, each with its own specific biochemical structure. While both are needed for optimum health, each works differently in the body. Here are some common ones and where they can be found:

Omega-3 fatty acids include: Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid, or DHA. (Note that DHA is not DHEA, another commonly available supplement). Fish oils, especially cold-water fish such as salmon, mackerel, halibut, and herring, as well as animals that feed on these fish, are the primary dietary sources of omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 fatty acids are also found in oils from some plants such as flax. Walnuts and soybeans also contain significant amounts, as well as freshly ground wheat germ.

Omega-6 fatty acids include: Linoleic acid (LA), its active form, gamma linolenic acid (GLA), and arachidonic acid (AA). Omega-6 is found in safflower, sunflower, corn and evening primrose and Borage oils. It is also present in poultry and pork fat, but very little is present in beef fat or butterfat. Arachidonic Acid, the essential fatty acid for felines, is only found in animal sources–in some fish oils, pork fat and poultry fat.

It is unfortunate that most commercial pet foods (especially the cheaper ones) contain far more omega-6s than omega-3s, since it has been shown that diets higher in omega-3s can provide significant health benefits. There are a number of reasons for this, but essentially it has to do with where the ingredients come from. Corn, for example, is high in omega-6 fatty acids, so the meat from animals fed on corn is also high in omega-6s. Meat, eggs, and milk that come from animals fed a diet containing flax seed have a higher proportion of omega-3s, as does the meat from grass fed or free-range animals.

While omega-3 fatty acids may be harder to come by, the benefits are well worth the trouble. Sufficient amounts of fatty acids, with the correct ratio of omega-3 and omega-6, are known to help prevent the following conditions (some conditions may also be treated with therapeutic levels of the correct fatty acids):

Dry, dull, brittle, itchy skin and haircoatInflammatory processes from any sourceAllergies, immune system dysfunctions-especially autoimmune conditions, and related diseases, such as arthritis, inflammatory bowel disease, diabetes, asthma, and ulcerative colitis, may respond to proper amounts of dietary omega-3s.Yeast infections can be slowedVisual acuity and heart conditions may be improved Omega-3s have been shown to slow the growth of some cancersFish oils decrease the levels of cholesterol and triglycerides in the bloodOverweight-a proper balance of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids can actually help prevent obesityMany mental conditions (in humans) respond favorably to increased levels of omega-3s.In addition to the amount, a correct balance of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids is also important. It is known, for example, that too much of the omega-6, linoleic acid, can actually cause inflammation. So, the key is to supply enough of the necessary fatty acids, in the correct balance. This is problematic because, even though research is ongoing, at present we don’t really know the ratio that is healthiest for each pet species.

While you might see recommendations that the omega-6-to-omega-3 ratio should be anywhere from 20:1 to 5:1, you should be suspicious. If you look to the source for those higher ratios, it is almost always a food industry source. Since omega-3s are difficult to preserve in packaged foods, it is to industry’s benefit to justify higher omega-6 recommendations.

For most pets eating a commercial diet (typically high in omega-6s), an additional daily dose of omega-3s in the form of fish oils or flax seed oil (or even a sprinkling of whole flax seeds) mixed into pet’s food will be helpful. Unless the pet food you are using specifically mentions an omega-3 content, you can probably assume that adding about 1 tablespoon of flax or 1 teaspoon of fish oil to each pound of your dog’s food will be beneficial. Check with your vet for exact dosages and for the specific fatty acids to use.

Tips for providing a healthy amount of omega-3s to a pet’s diet:

Whenever possible, choose natural sources, such as fish, flax seed oils or whole flax seeds, over supplements packaged in pills or capsules. Whenever possible, use fresh sources. Oils, especially the omega-3 fatty acids, can turn rancid quickly. Keep them out of sunlight and refrigerated, as their bioactivity diminishes with any heat. Supplemental vitamin E can be added to a pet’s diet to help keep the fatty acids from turning rancid, and there is some evidence to indicate that vitamin E adds to the absorption and activity of the fatty acids.Essential Fatty Acid supplementation may decrease the amount of antihistamines, corticosteroids or other medicines that your pet may be taking. Check with your vet if your pet is currently on medications.Fatty acids are an important factor for your pet’s overall health. Either as a regular part of your pet’s diet or as a supplement, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids together provide a natural way to alleviate or cure skin and other conditions, while being key to developing and maintaining a healthy haircoat.

27 May, 2010

Never Buy a Dog on Impulse

Posted by: admin In: Dogs

Never Buy a Dog on Impulse

Not every dog/owner relationship is a match made in heaven. Each year, hundreds of thousands of perfectly healthy dogs are dropped off at North American animal shelters by their owners or abandoned on the streets.

The following list should remind you that owning a dog is a lifetime responsibility, and that an impulsive decision to buy a dog is most often a big mistake.

1. He’s too big. Too big for what? Size is something everyone should think about before they get a puppy. Like it or not, they all grow up to be dogs.

2. He sheds too much. Excessive shedding can easily be controlled with regular grooming and by feeding a good quality dog food. If this doesn’t help, talk to your veterinarian, there could be a medical problem.

3. The kids won’t take care of it. Although children can assist with the task of caring for the family pet, it should NEVER be their ultimate responsibility. Children are, after all, just children. Try making a “job charts” and assigning certain dog care tasks to all family members on a rotating basis. Don’t forget to include your name on the list!

4. He barks too much. He’s probably bored and lonely. Try giving him more attention, and ask an obedience trainer how you can curb this behavior.

5. She keeps running away. Lock your gates and keep her on a leash. Never leave her unattended in the yard. Get her spayed and see #4.

6. He’s too difficult to control. Book spay/neuter surgery immediately and see #4.

7. He was a gift. That’s a real shame. A pet is for life, not just for Christmas, Easter or birthdays. Can’t you find room in your heart and home to keep him?

Sometimes, no matter how hard you try, things just don’t work out. Please discuss options with your breeder, a dog trainer and/or veterinarian before giving up on your pet.

27 May, 2010

Your Cat’s Nutritional Requirements: The Basics

Posted by: admin In: Cats

Your Cat’s Nutritional Requirements: The Basics

Protein. Dietary protein supplies essential amino acids and is needed for the manufacture of antibodies, enzymes, hormones, tissues, and proper pH balance. Protein provides energy for cats and is essential for growth and development. Complete proteins contain ample amounts of essential amino acids and are found in foods such as meat, fish, eggs, and poultry. Incomplete proteins do not provide all essential amino acids and are found in many foods including legumes, grains, and vegetables. Plant proteins don’t supply the essential amino acids that a cat needs, such as taurine, which come from animal protein. Cats need protein from animal sources as the amino acids from vegetable sources are not well utilized. Overall, cats have a very high requirement for protein.

Fat. Dietary fat is a concentrated source of energy for the cat. It also provides essential fatty acids and aids in nutrient utilization and transportation. Fat is involved in cell integrity and metabolic regulation. Saturated fat is found primarily in animal sources while polyunsaturated fat is found mostly in plant sources.

Linoleic and arachidonic acids have long been considered to be essential fatty acids (EFAs) for cats. More recently, DHA has been added due to its important contribution to feline vision, reproductive health, and the immune system. EPA may also be of benefit. Unlike some animals, cats do not efficiently convert plant sources of EFAs to the needed derivatives. For example, cats must eat meat to obtain arachidonic acid. Also, cats do not convert LA to GLA (as some animals do), but studies show that GLA can benefit feline skin and coat health. The cat would also consume Omega 3s and CLA when eating its natural herbivorous prey.

Minerals. Minerals are essential to the cat and are involved in almost all physiological reactions. They contribute to enzyme formation, pH balance, nutrient utilization, oxygen transportation, and are stored in bone and muscle tissue. Biological availability may vary widely depending on the source of the mineral. Elemental minerals are generally taken from the earth or water. Chelated minerals are those that are bound with other organic substances often making them easier for the body to absorb. Minerals include calcium, chloride, chromium, cobalt, copper, fluorine, iodine, iron, magnesium, manganese, molybdenum, phosphorus, potassium, selenium, silicon, sodium, sulfur, and zinc. There are other mineral elements required by cats at trace concentrations. Minerals, like vitamins, work synergistically. They have a cooperative action between them.

Vitamins. Vitamins are essential for metabolism regulation, normal growth and function. Vitamins are found in food and some are synthesized within the animal’s body. They’re classified as either water- or fat-soluble. Fat-soluble vitamins include A, D, E, and K. Water-soluble vitamins include C and the B-complex. Generally, fat-soluble vitamins are stored in the body, while water-soluble vitamins pass through more quickly. Once again, the carnivorous cat utilizes animal sources of nutrients more readily than plant sources. For example, cats cannot convert beta-carotene from plants to vitamin A (as some animals do), so they need preformed vitamin A from an animal source. Preformed vitamin A needs no conversion.

Water. Because cats are designed to fulfill most of their water requirements by eating fresh raw food, they naturally have a low thirst drive. This can lead to health issues for cats that eat dry cat food products and treats. One of the problems is that even though they become dehydrated eating the kibble, their natural “programming” may not encourage them to drink more water. And their urine can become too concentrated. Even though a healthy cat doesn’t drink much, you should always have clean good quality drinking water available to them. And please make sure it’s good quality water, which means tap water may be out, especially if your community puts fluoride and chlorine in the water supply. If you have well water, have it tested annually for contaminants.

27 May, 2010

Reasons to Spay and Neuter Cats

Posted by: admin In: Cats

Reasons to Spay and Neuter Cats

To control the overpopulation of cats you should have your pet spayed or neutered. Unfortunately millions of cats are euthanized each year because they are unwanted or there is no one to take care of them. Even if your cat is an indoor cat and there is no chance of your female getting pregnant or of your male getting someone pregnant you should still have your pet spayed or neutered to avoid potential problems of spraying, heat, medical and behavioral problems. Bear in mind that just one female cat and her offspring can produce over 400,000 cats in just seven years. Spaying/neutering your pet will ensure that your pet will not contribute to the pet overpopulation problem.

A female cat is spayed, this means that her ovaries and uterus (reproductive organs) will be removed. Usually she can be spayed after 6 months of age or in between heats or litters.** Your cat can be spayed during heat but it is more complicated and there is a slight risk due to increased vessel size and lowered clotting ability. If your female is not spayed she will often be in heat. This means meowing, crying, spraying, pacing and roaming the house (or outside if there is anyway to get out – beware a cat in heat is very, very clever) to look for a male. Unspayed females can also suffer uterine infections or breast cancer.

A male cat is neutered – this is the surgical removal of the testicles. This is a very simple procedure (much simpler than being spayed) that can be done after 6 months of age.** An unneutered male will go through severe spraying, howling, marking of territory and looking for a mate. An indoor male will do just about anything to get outside and find a female. Unneutered males are also prone to severe aggressiveness and territorialism.

** There is much debate going on about the *best* time to spay/neuter. Cats can be spayed/neutered earlier than 6 months of age, studies are still in progress on whether or not such early spaying/neutering is more or less beneficial than waiting till the cat is older than 6 months of age. If you are in doubt about when to spay/neuter consult your vet.

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